THE INCA TRAIL

the big South American adventure rally

Day 19: Lima - Nasca (477km)
Day 20: Nasca - Arequipa (563km)

Sand, oases and mystery

These two days are much more straightforward ones: for the classics, both are an easy drive down the Panamericana (Panamerican Highway). The 4x4s, meantime, had some Explorer loops to enjoy, taking them into the sandy desert terrain characterising kilometre after kilometre of this part of the Panamericana. Between Nasca anad Arequipa, there were moments when the road became an unfenced ledge perched half way up the side of a 1,000 foot sand dune. But in the blinking of an eye, sand gives way to broad flat farmland oases - only to switch back just as quickly to another dramatic sandy tract that looks set to go on for ever.


The challenge of driving these desert roads was tackled with relish by many Adventure Drivers. Barry Aughey and Eugene Courtney had certainly got the bit between their teeth by the second day. 'We were driving into sand like it was water. It went all over us in a huge spray - we had to put the wipers on to clear the screen.' The end of the Nasca - Arequipa leg told its own story: their vehicle drove into the Plaza de Armas control completely smothered in sand. No-one else could match them!'


The Panamericana led crews past the Nasca Lines: the mysterious ancient engravings in the pancake flat terrain - punctuated by rocky outcrops - on the approach to the city. There was the opportunity early the following morning to take aeroplane flights to view from above the images and associated lines running straight to the horizon for kilometres. Truly impressive - and leaving everyone debating the origin and purpose of these incredible feats of design and endeavour.

HERO's organising team at the Mayor's Parlour reception

Joanna Brown signs the City records commemorating the Inca Trail visit

Porsche hustles along Pacific shelf

20 Warm welcome in Arequipa

Jenny Dorey and Chris Wray present the HERO Earthquake Appeal Fund cheque

An adventure too far

Sadly, for Ed and Carolyn Hammond the trip to Nasca proved one adventure too many. They'd just taken a spur off the Panamericana that gave crews the chance to visit the pre-Inca Lost City of Huayuri.


The road here is rougher than the Panamericana that they'd just left. Just after an impressive single-track rough-hewn tunnel through a rock outcrop, Ed swerved to avoid some potholes - and lost control, rolling the Discovery several times. Event medics came to the couple's help, and ensured that both were OK. They were fine, though obviously rather shaken. But the Land Rover was clearly far from well. Both it and the Hammonds were taken back to Lima with the Discovery on the back of a low loader, and they will spend a few days deciding what to do next. We do hope they can find a way of rejoining the event - they were clearly disappointed to have to break their journey in such a dramatic way.

Freedom of Nasca

There was a special privilege in store for Inca Trail participants at Nasca. We had another super civic welcome in the city centre: the Mayor attended for more than two hours to welcome every crew as they filtered through the excited crowds. But more was to come. Event organisers were invited to the Mayor's parlour later that evening, to be informed that all Inca Trail participants were being offered the Freedom of the City of Nasca. The following morning, each was presented with a copy of the resolution passed by the City Council. A lovely souvenir and yet another warm gesture from the people of South America who really have welcomed our event with open arms.


Mustang feels the pace

John Aspinall and Philip Jenkins had never taken part in a car rally in their lives before joining the Inca Trail, so it was good to see them still with us after the tough opening days of the event. But finally just as their Mustang arrived at the main Arequipa Time Control, it cried Œenough!'. Suddenly, everything let go at once - electrics, engine - there was oil all over the place. The Arequipa Car Club moved quickly - a low loader appeared, and whisked the stricken Mustang away to see what could be done. Let's hope another local miracle can be worked and that the car can be sent on its way before too long.


HERO Earthquake Appeal Fund

Don and Pat Griffiths, the 4x4 Adventure Drive Trailmasters, had a dramataic adventure when they arrived in Peru for the event's final route survey on 23 June. They were at the customs post after leaving Chile when the ground shook beneath them. They were experiencing the earthquake that had its epicentre near Arequipa, and which did substantial damage to buildings and many of the roads that John Brown's original route had planned to use. Today participants saw vivid evidence themselves along the route and on arrival at Arequipa's magnificent Plaza de Armas for the final control of the day.

At a special reception held at the Hotel Libertador, Inca Trail participants Jenny Dorey and Christopher Wray presented a cheque to the Mayor of Arequipa, in the presence of the Honorary British Consul to the city. HERO launched a special appeal fund as soon as they knew the extent of the damage in the area, and donations came in quickly from Inca Trail participants and many others as well: Everyone involved in the rally hopes that the sum of GBP 10,350 will go some way towards helping Arequipa recover from the impact of such a tragic experience.

Roving Marshal

Roberto Octavio, who lives in Rio de Janeiro, joined the Inca Trail as one of a group of Brazilian marshals, helping spread the workload of running daily Time Controls. They brought with them the benefit of local knowledge and of course mastery of the Portuguese language. The crew proved so adept that they and their Land Rover stayed with us well beyond Brazil's border with Argentina. When his friends finally had to leave to go back to work in Rio, after we reached Puno, they drove the Land Rover back too, but Roberto was invited to stay on. Now he'll be with us all the way round: we hope. Unloading the Land Rover in Rio, around the time we arrived in Arequipa, his friends discovered Roberto's passport. The rally moves on to Chile on Saturday. Will Roberto's Uncle's ingenuity find a way of getting his passport to him in time? Watch this space!