THE INCA TRAIL
the big South American adventure rally
 Two American-entered cars arrive safely at the end of a long day, the 1949 Ford Custom Convertible of David Brayshaw/Richard Foster, and the oldest car in the rally, the 1929 Chrysler Model 75 of Richard Newman/Robert O'Hare |
 Co-driver Nicholas Hall beside Malcolm McKay's brave Triumph TR2 at a roadside drink stop 'somewhere in South America' |
 The Austin Healey 3000 of Rick and Diana Dyke-Price hustles onward |
Day 7: Corrientes Jujuy (813 km)
The rally's first border crossing into Argentina came early on Day 6 after we left Foz do Iguacu: we'll be doing many such as we head south through the Andes. This time we ran across the Paraná river just downstream of the Falls in full spate: they are at their highest level for 20 years, it is said.
Just one shortish medal section today but great fun: an inviting red dirt road beckoned away from the start line. David Garrett was still lit up by the run at the lunch halt: 'Tremendous swooping flying incredible.' He reappeared at Corrientes a few hours later brandishing the flag of one of the country's poliitcal parties it's local election time right now: of which more later.
Leaving the Medal Section behind, the rally discovered the joys of motoring in Argentina. Roads are long, straight and ... virtually empty. Every so often, there's nothing as far as the eye can see either in front or behind. These two days are mainly transit days, gobbling up the miles en route to the foothills of the Andes. The Day 7 Regularity of Presa Las Maderas on a lovely smooth winding gravel road around a reservoir was in the shadow of the foothills of the Andes. Needless to say, even the foothills of the Andes are pretty impressive.
One or two crews failed to stop for the first secret check of the Regularity: maybe they were enjoying life too much? And though we had another early start, the roads made life easy. But on Day 8 the Inca Trail will begin in earnest ... Up into the Andes and across to Bolivia.
Portuguese not (quite) spoken here
Geoff and Jenny Dorey thrive on adversity. The couple enjoyed the challenge of getting their Alfa back into the rally after holing its sump in Ouro Preto on one of the notorious Brazilian sleeping policemen that plague main roads through built-up areas.
They caught up with us again at Foz do Iguazu. By then they were completely out of Brazilian currency a bit difficult if you have main road tolls to pay. Jenny found the answer to the language problem. She copied out a few select sentences from their phrasebook: Our car has broken down. We have had many problems. We have no money. Will you accept dollars? Handing this in at the next tollbooth, initial consternation turned into a meeting with superiors. Finally it was agreed that someone would do an unofficial money exchange for the couple, giving them enough local currency to see them through. Yes, they had a great time.
And English not (quite) spoken here ...
The language barrier works both ways. Peter Rushforth was standing a long time in the mist and drizzle at the finish of the Regularity before Campos do Jordao a few days ago (he has only just remembered this story: his memory becomes frail with age). He used a handy bus shelter to keep out of the rain, emerging as cars came into view. The local populace ignored him to a man until girls from the local school arrived for their bus home. One, aged about ten, realised he'd been there a while as she watched his activities.
She produced her school English Language test book, turned the pages, and pointed to the phrase: 'Would you like a drink?' Peter was inclined to accept this kind offer.
The young lady disappeared for a while, but eventually reappeared, with ... a hamburger.
The dirty old man of rallying ...
Paul Wignall spotted all these goings-on as he pulled into Peter Rushforth's regularity timing point. And he commented to the next marshal down the road that there seemed to be a dirty old man running the show for HERO. The Deputy Clerk of the Course cannot deny the accusation. 'Yes, I am old. Yes, I was pretty dirty by then. And yes, I was surrounded by schoolgirls.'
Case proven, m'lud.
Argentina? It's over there ...
The first of our course cars to reach the Brazilian border post was treated with great courtesy. 'Are you going to Argentina?' was the question. 'Yes'. 'OK. Get your passport stamped, then Argentina is one kilometre down this road.' Now, if it wasn't we'd all have been really worried.
Carried away!
David Garrett has obviously been having too much fun. He had a great time on the Day 6 Regularity Section. He managed to acquire a flag (by fair means or foul) at the tremendous political rally that was starting from the same petrol station as our Main Control In at Corrientes (they make politics so much fun here: sound systems blasting away; flags; processions; full of young people ...) But it was all too much for him. On Day 7 he took a 200 km detour down a wrong slot: dead straight, nearly featureless, just like the Argentine road that was on the Inca Trail route. One day we'll find out if his navigator was awake at the time ...