THE INCA TRAIL
the big South American adventure rally
Derek Hunt & Roy Such's Vauxhall Frontera storms past Miscanto Volcano |
Day 24: Calama - Salta (Argentina) (614km)
More of the Atacama Desert today - such spectacular scenery: Flat sandy desert plains, snowcapped volcanic ranges surrounded by ancient dust, ash and boulders; soda lakes with flamingoes. And kilometre after kilometre of two lane blacktop threading its way through before giving way to gravel and crossing two high passes (up to 15,200ft) through the Andes back into Argentina. A run along the fertile Quebrada del Toro valley brought the final contrast: cacti gave way to lush green farmland and villages sheltered by trees. Then into Salta - for another resounding Cathedral square welcome.
Water worries? Not on your life...
In the middle of their drive through the driest place on earth, Tony and Pauline Mather were forced to stop, their Citroen's engine overheating badly. By the time one of the HERO course cars came across them, it had boiled a second time. But Tony was relaxed and cheery enough. 'Almost certainly the thermostat. I can sort that.' Water problems? No way. They'd had the devil's own luck and managed to find a tiny inhabited oasis with two cottages, a stream and ... a tap.
Shocking
David Inns nearly lost it when Sue Shoosmith passed him on the gravel section: he went blind into a sand-trap, and narrowly avoided going into a roll. 'But we came down so hard, I broke a shock absorber.' The rear spring had torn off its mounting. David had already managed to relocate the spring when Jingers arrived in one of HERO's sweep vehicles. Jingers managed to fit a new shocker, though this was around 15,400ft above sea level - tough work in such a rarifed atmosphere if you're not acclimataised. The birds have a tough time getting enough lift to fly here.
But 20km further on, David found his front shock absorber mounting had torn out of the lower wishbone. Nothing to be done about this one, decided Jingers: he could do no more than remove the damaged item, allowing David to drive slowly on with no front damping. It gave Greg Williams, our event medic who specialises in the effects of altitude, plenty of opportunity to observe what happens when physical exertion occurs. But Jingers was unmoved: 'Those are the kind of breakdowns I love: rarified atmosphere, blowing a gale and a sandstorm with it: a terrific challenge!'
Back into the fold
News from the Hammonds: after taking time out at Lima, they plan to buy a replacement 4x4 in Argentina and rejoin us at Bariloche for the rest of the event. Good stuff!
Surprise of the day - in a day already full of visual drama - came at Salta. Waiting for the rally were Ruedi Mueller, his co-driver Urban Faessler, and their beautiful Chrysler Imperial le Baron Roadster. We last saw them in the darkness at Campos do Jordao on Day 3, after blowing a cylinder head gasket. 'We found there was a public holiday next day', explained Ruedi, 'So it took us extra time to get the repair done. We couldn't catch up, so decided upon cutting across country and waiting here for the rally to catch up with us instead!'
Superglue rescue
Alastair Caldwell was towed into Salta by Jim Taylor's big Chevy Avalanche, much to the chagrin of the local press, who like to see Ferraris behaving as Ferraris should: fast and loud. By the end of the day, Alastair's 330GT was neither. 'The oil light came on. I took a look and realised the sump was holed: a stone must have got between the sump guard and the engine. I didn't have enough oil, so I poured petrol into the engine to help trace where the leak was. It was in an impossible to reach place - so there was nothing for it but to look for a tow.'
At Salta, Alastair searched out a garage, explained his problem and asked them to sort the problem from the inside - with Araldite. He needed the car back by 4.30am, he said. By 5.45am, he was walking into the hotel foyer. 'Yes, it's back, it runs, I've filled up with fuel: we're ready to go.'
For those left wondering what happened after David Hall failed in his mission with the replacement differential, Alastair tried again with a different courier: his son-in-law this time. Not taking any chances, he bought a ticket via Madrid. Success. Alastair now has what he reckons is one of the most robust diffs in the business. 'All my mods to hold the old one together, plus a few of the vital bits from the new one. Should keep us going.' Let's hope so.