THE INCA TRAIL

the big South American adventure rally

Day 43: Trelew - Gaiman - Puerto Madryn (176 km)

Salem Chapel

Bethlehem Chapel, Treorky

Into the heart of Welsh Patagonia, which was first colonised in 1865. Welsh settlers came here to avoid the potential destruction of their culture by English rulers, who set about forbidding the language to be spoken or taught in schools: all teaching was to be in English. But ironically, while there has been a resurgence of the Welsh language back home, the descendants of those settlers have become less Welsh with time. It is largely the older generation who speak the language now, as well as English and the Spanish. But, as in Wales some thirty years ago, there is a new consciousness. The language is beginning to be revived, taught again in Patagonian schools, and teachers are being brought from Wales to ensure the continuing of the tradition.

A circuit test for the Classics kicked the day off, at the Autodromo de Trelew. Then out into the irrigated fertile farming valley of the river Chubut for an exploration that included the small town of Gaiman. A short circuit of roads took crews to visit a succession of Welsh chapels - some of them still in regular use - and involving (for the Classics) the collection of a Passage Control handstamp from each place visited in turn.

Then it was on to a brief tour of Welsh teashops, serving tea in the traditional manner from ceramic teapots, kept warm with handknitted cosies, plus bread, scones, jam and cakes. Finally there was a Main Control outside the Welsh museum - presided over charmingly by Mrs Roberts, now in her 80s, who was especially delighted to meet Diana Dyke-Price and Colin Francis, both from Wales. John Bateson's Escort was spotted sporting a Welsh flag for the occasion.

Our day ended at Puerto Madryn, the place where the first settlers landed in July 1865. This will be our base for two nights, while we take a short break to visit the coast and go in search of more marine wildlife. Tomorrow it's the turn of whales and elephant seals.

More brinksmanship

John Bateson is determined to play the 'will he, won't he?' game with his Gold medal aspirations. After the drama of the missing carnet, today it was his Escort's turn to throw a spanner in the works.

They arrived at the Trelew circuit on time, and waited in the queue of cars for their turn to take to the track. But suddenly there was water everywhere: a core plug had popped out of the engine.

Jingers was already on the circuit as one of the crews helping with the running of the test. But even with his expertise it was a close-run thing. Those with an eye on the clock were getting very nervous as the minutes ticked by: would he run out of time?

To everyone's relief, the job was done, the engine started, and Colin Francis checked the car onto the circuit ... in the final minute that they could have taken. Just 30 seconds separated John's car from being OTL and loss of one of his Gold medal 'lives' - the lead he has over the next best car in his Age Category. But they lived to fight another day, and, relatively unfazed, came away from the circuit with a score of four seconds. More on circuit scores and overall CRT standings tomorrow.

Welcome ... and farewell

Alastair Caldwell has been driving with a 'borrowed' navigator for a few days since Alastair Gibson was taken ill. Gibson has returned to the UK now, and in the meantime Caldwell arranged for Sandra Deumel to fly out to take over for the rest of the event. Sandra navigated John Bateson to victory on Bart Rietbergen's 2000 Mile Trial last year. But she's had to leave her beloved dog, Serra, who goes rallying with her all over Europe, behind this time. Will Sandra's timekeeping be the same without his enthusiastic presence?

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