Mitzi crossed this...

... but not this. Thank heavens they'll be dry riverbeds in October 2001

Typical hazard: hole in bridge, invisible on approach. One for the road book

Day 44 - Saturday 4 March

Another slow day. We thought we had found our much needed classic rally section just outside Camaná, but the surface deteriorated. However, it passes through an amazing gorge of hardened wind-formed sandstone, so we will make it a spectacular 4x4 section.

Nearing Arequipa, we did at last find our rally section. It is reasonably surfaced, and for some of its length is a narrow track clinging to the side of a gorge, including a crossing of a rickety looking suspension bridge high above a roaring stream running through a cleft in the rocks. We think we are still jinxed when a second suspension bridge has a span missing, but after an hour or so we find an alternative route out. This will be a great medal section, but must be run at slow speed.

The detour has caused us to miss a meeting with the city hall people, so we'll have to be late leaving on Monday. Tonight, though, we had a good meeting with Carlos, of the local motor club, who, it turns out, owns a beer distribution company - could be useful!

Arequipa is a terrific city, with a historic colonial core overlook by Misti and other great snow-capped volcanoes. Here, the old Government hotel is excellent - Pisco Sours at Richter nine and a half - and we have found some other good hotels, too.

4x4 section near Camaná

Bridge on medal section near Arequipa

Day 45 - Sunday 5 March

A great day for the rally, a slightly disappointing one for us. The good news is that we have found one of the best day's driving of the event, the loop from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon and back.

The roads out to the canyon are wide, fast and pretty well surfaced, with superb views of snow-covered volcanic peaks, and go to over 16,000 ft - we had some snow flurries. Further surface improvements are in progress.

But it is the route back which has provided us with two wonderful medal sections: 150 km of quiet, twisting, reasonably surfaced and demanding mountain roads, which are not to be missed.

Our personal disappointment is that our own visit was another casualty of this rainy season. The Cruz del Condor is one of the finest viewpoints in the Andes, looking straight down into one of the world's deepest canyons. It is also the very best place to see condors at close quarters, since they nest in the cliffs below and slowly rise up close to the viewer as the morning thermals heat up. However, we were there in thick fog, which not only rather marred the view but also prevented the condors from taking off as (i) there were no thermals and (ii) they rely on VFR (pilot's technical term for flying by eyeball) to spot their food, so there's no point anyway.

One consolation is the knowledge that the rally participants will see these things, especially if we make them leave Arequipa very early on. Another is that the Pisco Sours are good again tonight.

Volcanoes on the road out from Arequipa

At 16,000 ft on the road to Colca

One of the finest viewpoints in the Andes

Day 46 - Monday 6 March

We had planned to do the five-hour gravel section from Arequipa to Moquegua today, but got behind schedule through meetings with the municipality - who were VERY welcoming - and in more hotel inspections, and left it too late to get through in daylight - it's dark here before
6:00 pm. So we decided just to note the routes out of town. Ho.

The old car route back to the Panamericana was easy enough, but it took us over four hours to find and note the route to the gravel back road. Not for the first time, we wondered if those participants realise how much can go into ten minutes' worth of road book!

We are staying at a different and charming little hotel - Pisco Sours, nine - and have had an excellent seafood meal. My personal highlight, though, has been the hotel across the road. Not only is it superb, but also the proprietor is a classic car fan who took me for a quick run round the block in his 1939 Ford V8 Coupé (pronounced, no doubt, 'coop'). We both laughed out loud with the sheer shared joy of it.


Day 47 - Tuesday 7 March

The gravel section from Arequipa to Moquegua is splendid and spectacular. We ran the first half in rain and fog, and the road was suffering badly from rainy season blues, but again the locals assured us that it will be better in October. The second half was wider, faster, sunnier and highly enjoyable, marred only by a mild coming together with a local 4x4 on a blind corner.

The damage was very minor indeed, but local traditions had to be respected so the driver's employer, the police and a supporting cast of voyeurs had to be assembled. The police really didn't want to know, and honour was satisfied when, after the customary negotiations, about $20 was handed over, hands were shaken to smiles all round, and we carried on.

We decided to explore the coast road from Ilo towards the Chilean border. It turned out to be scenic and very fast. Too late to cross tonight, we are staying in Tacna. Our last Peruvian Pisco Sours have been among the best, and have been particularly poignant as Germán leaves us tomorrow. He has been a tremendous help, especially after out little mishap today.

On the Moquegua section

Day 48 - Wednesday 8 March

We found a useful link from the Ilo coast road to the Panamericana before crossing into Chile - a relatively quick and painless process.

We then spent a good day exploring and sorting out Arica, a pleasant seaside town with a couple of good hotels, one right on the beach. Again, helpful local municipality and motor club people.

Several grades of petrol, and diesel, are available at all stations, some of which take Visa (but none seem to accept other cards). Prices per litre are 93 octane US$0.63, 95 octane US$0.64, 97 octane US$0.65, diesel US$0.40.

We asked for Pisco Sours. Not a patch on the Peruvian article.

Next: Arica to Alberdi